Labor of Intense Like

Beautiful food relies upon simplistic and raw ingredients to fit together and create layers of flavor, one flavor no more important than any other. As the tree-costumed actor is important to the whole of the play, the dash of pepper brings a new depth to the tuna salad. However, at times pairing the simplest ingredients can prove complex, causing the cook to wonder if all the fuss is worth the end result, and perhaps she should just settle for a tuna melt.

I've had the recipe for Barley and Asparagus Risotto ("Mission: Meatless”, Gourmet Magazine April 2007) in my to-make list for months. Lately I’ve been braver in my attempts to center my meals on strictly vegetarian dishes, and Sunday evening seemed the perfect time to prepare this hearty and rustic risotto – a dish that eventually turned into a three hour project. I dare say that if I were more specific in asking Shane to look for shelled hazelnuts instead of ones that had to be shelled, I would have shaved 30 to 45 minutes from the preparation time. Fortunately, Shane is sport and a mighty fine sous-chef. Using only a pair of pliers and brute determination, Shane sweetly shelled an entire bag of hazelnuts for me. But the remainder of the risotto project was entirely in my hands. To give credit to Kemp Minifie, executive food editor of Gourmet and author of the article “Mission: Meatless”, several steps in the recipe can be done in advance, although the overall preparation was fiddly and time-consuming.

I like this risotto. I like the idea of using the asparagus cooking water instead of broth. I like the crunch of the hazelnuts. I even like taking every step to ensure each ingredient's flavor is showcased. I would like to make this risotto on a weeknight, after advanced preparation of the asparagus tips and puree (saving the cooking water). Shane did suggest that a lightly seared tuna steak would go well with the risotto, forgoing the vegetarian idea. In my opinion, the risotto can stand by itself as a main dish, paired with a light salad or some roasted vegetables. I served roasted broccoli on the side, but I feared our plates held too much green. Next time I may pair the risotto with a simple radish salad. For a special occastion, I may try topping the risotto with slivers of prosciutto or serving it alongside a grilled porkchop or seared tuna steak. Versatility.