Okay, Okay, the New and Improved Pork Chop Dish

In continuation of the May 11, 2008 post, after the appetizer, and before the dessert I have yet to enticingly describe, I served pork chops in port wine cream sauce over whole wheat penne:

Pork Chops in Port Wine Cream Sauce over Whole Wheat Penne

Serves 4, especially after potato chips and brie

For the Pork Chops:
3 8oz boneless pork chops, each chop roughly 1 inch thick
Generous grinding of coarsely cracked pepper
salt
olive oil (optional)

For the sauce:
2 tablespoons butter
4 shallots, chopped
Handful fresh thyme, chopped
1 cup port, tawny or ruby
1 1/3 cups cream
salt to taste

1 lb penne, or any tubular pasta, whole wheat or not

Start a large pot of salted water to boil.

Crack pepper onto a large plate or platter and sprinkle over with salt. Press both pork chops into the salt and pepper on the plate and generously sprinkle more salt and pepper over the tops of the chops and press into the chops. Heat a large, heavy skillet (I used cast iron) on a fairly high heat. If necessary, brush the skillet with olive oil before. If it's a well seasoned pan, this may not be necessary. In batches, sear the pork chops: one minute on each side and then lower the heat, cover skillet, and cook pork chops 4 minutes each side. Remove pork chops from the pan onto a plate, cover with foil, and let rest for 5 minutes. The Pork chops will continue cooking until they are pink in the middle.

As the remaining pork chop cooks, add the pasta to the boiling water. Cook until al dente.

While the pasta is cooking, to the already warm skillet, add the butter. When the butter stops foaming, add the shallots and thyme and sauté for 5 minutes. Carefully pour the port into the skillet, increase heat, and bring to a boil. Simmer for 1 minute scraping the bottom of the skillet to release the bits of meat clinging to the bottom. Add cream and any meat juices that accumulate on the plate to the skillet, bring to a simmer, and simmer for 2-3 minutes or until thickened. Salt to taste.

Slice pork into strips. Drain pasta, toss with the cream sauce, and top with slices of the pork chops.

Happy Easter!

Please do not think the only thing I did this Easter weekend was construct a bunny from 2 baguettes, a boule, and a couple of raisins. I also napped, watched several movies, and shared an entire bottle of champagne with Shane (over the course of a day, not in one sitting). It was a very productive, albeit cold weekend. In the course of my weekend, I saw more snowmen than bunnies.

Even as we wolfed our Easter evening quiche, I gazed at snow-glistened rooftops of the flats behind our kitchen window. How hard was it for little Easter boys and girls to find their neon green and magenta colored eggs in the half-melted snow?

To brighten up our not-quite-spring weather, I formulated and experimented with quiche. A light quiche, if possible, and there are tricks to lighten quiches. I’ve seen recipes for both going crust-less quiches and quiches that use a simple mashed potato crust. But hey, what’s a traditional holiday without a little butter and cream -- Just a bit of both? Okay, a bit of cream and a lot of butter. Balance – it’s all about balance.

Forget potatoes, forget a non-existent crust and give me flaky, buttery, browned goodness. Quiche crust, I’m not afraid to do 300 crunches the next morning. (There are no witnesses, but I did do 300 crunches the next morning.) I am an all butter pie crust gal. Crisco scares me, and I still cannot bring myself to use lard (although if I were put into a smoke-filled interrogation room with the blinds drawn and the ceiling fan whirling and causing a shadow upon the table, I would tearfully admit to preferring lard over Crisco before wiping my eyes with my blood red, 1-inch long fingernails).

For those who are intimidated by a pie crust more than being interrogated in a film noir, Gourmet’s all butter pastry dough is a no-brainer. As all good things, it only takes a bit of time to create something memorable (or at the very least, edible).

Shane and I agreed a quiche with asparagus and goat cheese sounded divine, reminiscent of an omelet we had at a nearby diner. However, after searching the internet for a simple goat cheese and asparagus quiche, nothing I found quite passed the Emilie standard. Most recipes called for both heavy cream and whole milk. I keep 1% milk in the fridge for me, and 2% milk for Shane. I don’t have room in either my fridge or my pants for either whole milk or cream. Forget bikini season, I’m just trying to make my skinny jeans go from eye popping to only slightly crushing my spleen. I do, however, keep a small container of fully fattening sour cream. Sour cream has saved me from cluttering my fridge with both buttermilk and heavy cream. From pancakes to potato soup to (now) quiche… oh forget it. I may as well be wearing a ruffled apron and an unnaturally white smile.

I have my crust, I have my main ingredients, and now I have a milk plan. For every 3 parts milk (using 2% milk), use 1 part sour cream, combine in a jar, and vigorously shake. Voila! The milk comes out thicker than whole milk, but not as rich or fattening as pure cream.

Eggs – how many eggs does it take to make a quiche? Two, but I wouldn’t ask them to check out my breaker box. From my quiche-search, the number of eggs to fill a 9 inch crust varied from 3 large to 6 large. What is a girl to do? With a willingness to completely screw up my recipe, I penciled a formula: for a 9-inch pie dish, use 2 whole eggs and 2 eggs yolks combined with 1 cup milk, or 1 cup of combined milk and sour cream. The rest of my quiche plan came together easily.

Here is the formula I concocted for a 9-inch pie plate:

1 9-inch pie crust

2 medium shallots, sliced
12 oz fresh asparagus, woody ends trimmed, and cut into 1-inch pieces on the diagonal
1 tablespoon butter

2 large eggs
2 egg yolks (from large eggs)
¼ cup sour cream
¾ cup 2% milk
3 scallions, white and some green, chopped
Salt and pepper

8 oz soft goat cheese, cut into 15 rounds
Fresh thyme


Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Roll out pie crust and fit into 9-inch pie plate. Set aside in refrigerator until ready to use.

In a large pan over medium heat, sauté shallots and asparagus in butter until asparagus are crisp tender, about 5-8 minutes. Do not overcook asparagus or they’ll become mushy in quiche.

While asparagus is sautéing, combine sour cream and milk in a jar, and shake vigorously until sour cream is incorporated into milk. Combine milk and sour cream mixture with whole eggs, egg yolks, and scallions and whisk until eggs are pale yellow and well incorporated. Season with salt and pepper.

Remove pie crust from refrigerator. Crumble and scatter half the goat cheese rounds on the bottom of the crust. Top goat cheese with asparagus and shallots, and pour egg mixture over asparagus. Dot the top of the mixture with remaining goat cheese rounds, distributing them evenly.

Bake on middle rack of the oven for 35 minutes. Quiche will not be completely set, and that’s okay; it’ll continue to cook after it’s removed from the oven. Let quiche cool for 10 minutes or up to several hours (I made mine 2 hours in advance). Serve at room temperature (of, if you must, “nuke” it Shane-style).

Conclusion: Creamy, smooth, and light, even for a dish wrapped in butter and flour. What would I do differently? For starters, I need to measure our pie plate. I have it ingrained in my brain that it’s a 9-inch pie plate, but my filling left a lot of exposed pie crust. For those who love crusts, this may not be an issue. Personally I desire more balance between filling and crust. For my next quiche, I plan on upping the egg quantity to 3 whole eggs and 3 yolks, while increasing the milk mixture to 1 ½ cups. Also, as a request from Shane, I will cut back the amount of goat cheese to about 7 ounces, crumbled and scattered more into the quiche rather than artfully arranged on the top layer. Cheese, butter, and sour cream may not help me fit into my skinny jeans, although I did compromise by forgoing a rich dessert. By eating my bread bunny’s raisin eyes, I compensated.

Ooh La La

To lower our sometimes embarrassingly high grocery bill, Shane and I have cut back on our meat consumption, replacing fish, fowl, pork, and beef with lentils, lentils, beans, and broccoli. Can you imagine the contests we have after dinner? I’m almost too ashamed to admit I frequently win. However, this past weekend, we celebrated Shane’s 37th birthday by taking a break from our homely, mostly vegetarian meals

Since I have a knack for searing pork chops, I decided upon creating a French-inspired pork chop à la Emilie. Ooh la la. Pork chops swimming in a crème and port wine sauce with zee rich sauce spilling onto zee potatoes mashed with parsnips, carrots, and thyme and finished with butter and a bit of crème of their own, with zee sides of the zee serving platter garnished with crisply roasted fresh green beans. Ooh la la.

Unfortunately I’m not French (did I fool anyone?), and unfortunately my fake accent cannot coyly excuse the rubbery texture of the green beans and blandness of the potatoes. By leaving the beans in a warm oven while I finished the remainder of the meal, I steamed away their crispness. Lesson learned: green beans need to be roasted at the last minute for peak flavor and texture. And although the mashed potatoes were boosted with the nuttiness of parsnips and sweetness of carrots (not to mention a load of butter and cream), they were ho-hum, at best.

However, the pork chops in their port wine and cream sauce, oh my savior, my meal savior! The only sounds in the room were classical music in the background and Shane’s gorging. Who can waste words when there are pork chops to eat? Juicy, tender, faintly pink on the inside pork chops surrounded by cream and a touch of sweetness from the port. This was simplicity that put to shame the fussy preparation of the potatoes.

Adapted from Gourmet April 2007
2 - 4 servings (Depending on how much meat you want to consume)

For the Pork Chops:
2 8oz boneless pork chops, each chop roughly 1 inch thick
Generous grinding of coarsely cracked pepper
salt
olive oil (optional)

For the sauce:
1/4 cup port, tawny or ruby
1/3 cup cream
salt to taste

Crack pepper onto a large plate or platter and sprinkle over with salt. Press both pork chops into the salt and pepper on the plate and generously sprinkle more salt and pepper over the tops of the chops and press into the chops. Heat a large, heavy skillet (I used cast iron) on a fairly high heat. If necessary, brush the skillet with olive oil before. If it's a well seasoned pan, this may not be necessary. Sear the pork chops one minute on each side. Lower heat, cover skillet, and cook pork chops 4 minutes each side. Remove pork chops from the pan onto a plate, cover with foil, and let rest for 5 minutes. The Pork chops will continue cooking until they are pink in the middle.

Add port to the skillet, increase heat, and bring to a boil. Simmer for 1 minute scraping the bottom of the skillet to release the bits of meat clinging to the bottom. Add cream and any meat juices that accumulate on the plate to the skillet, bring to a simmer, and simmer for 2-3 minutes or until thickened. Salt to taste. Add pork chops and turn off heat. This should gently re-heat the pork chops and only take a minute or so. Serve pork chops topped with sauce.

Proving there’s more to me than seared pork chops and cordials, I ended our meal with an old favorite, Chocolate Stout Cake. I love a good beer! I love a glass of pale ale paired with sharp cheddar cheese, I love a bottle of Mexican lager paired with chicken soft tacos, and I especially love a pint of syrupy, bitter stout paired with dark chocolate to create three thick layers of dark chocolate cake. Each layer sandwiched rich raspberry ganache, and for flair, I nestled fresh strawberries to hide the slight indention in the top layer.

My cakes are often a masquerade with a strawberry here and a bit more icing there. Masks and indentions aside, I love the moist denseness of this cake. There is no harsh or cloying sweetness . The tartness of the raspberries in the ganache complement the slight bitterness of the dark chocolate while toning the richness of the cream. Just a slim slice satisfied this normal chocoholic.

Emilie’s note: don’t bother with fancy cocoa powders. Hershey’s special dark cocoa powder makes (and takes) the cake in this recipe. I also highly recommend using an extra stout beer such as Guinness Extra Stout. Go the extra mile, you’ll need the exercise.